Personalised Behaviour Support Plan

One of the most important skills you can develop is learning to spot early stress signals before Monty reaches the point of reacting. These include lip licking, yawning, looking away, sniffing the ground suddenly, stiffening through the body, a slow blink, or the ears going back. The earlier you notice these, the more options you have. Practise watching him in everyday, low-stress situations first so you can recognise what relaxed looks like for him, and build from there.

Before introducing other dogs into the picture, you need a solid loose lead walk in quiet environments. Start somewhere with very few distractions — a quiet street or large car park works well. Reward Monty generously for choosing to walk beside you without pulling. Keep sessions short (5-10 minutes) and end on a positive. Build this up gradually before moving to busier environments.

Monty's overall stress levels affect how quickly he reaches his threshold around other dogs. Daily enrichment activities help bring those levels down and create a calmer baseline. Sniffing, licking, and chewing are all naturally calming. Try snuffle mats, licki mats with peanut butter or wet food, scatter feeding in the garden, or a frozen Kong. Aim for at least one of these every day.

The most important management tool you have right now is space. At distance, Monty can notice another dog without going over threshold — this is where he is able to think and learn. If he is already reacting, you are too close. Aim to spot dogs early and create distance before he notices them where possible. Cross the road, turn around, or step behind a parked car. This is not avoidance — it is smart management that protects his progress.

Walking parallel to another dog — both dogs on the same side of the road, moving in the same direction, at a distance where Monty stays relaxed — is one of the most effective ways to begin building positive associations. It reduces the face-on social pressure of a direct approach. Start with the dogs far apart and only reduce distance very gradually over multiple sessions.

When Monty spots a dog and begins to fixate — body tenses, ears forward, eyes locked — your window for intervention is narrow. As soon as you see this, calmly say his name, turn and walk the other way, and reward heavily when he comes with you. Practise the turn in low distraction settings first so it becomes fluent before you need it in a high-pressure moment.

Teach Monty to check in with you automatically, without being asked. Start at home: every time he glances at you, mark it with a "yes" and reward. Move to the garden, then quiet streets. The goal is a dog who is in the habit of looking at you for information rather than scanning the environment for triggers. This is your foundation for everything else.

This is your get-out-of-jail-free card for moments when a dog appears suddenly and you need to move fast. Teach it on cue — say "this way" in a bright voice, turn 180 degrees, and run a few steps in the other direction, rewarding Monty as he follows. Practise it at home and in the garden until it is fluent, then use it on walks before you actually need it.

Every time Monty sees another dog at a distance where he is not yet reacting, something good should happen — a piece of chicken, a game with a toy, a happy voice. The goal is to change what the sight of another dog means emotionally. This is not about distraction; you are building a new association. Be consistent, be generous, and be patient. Over weeks, you should start to see him looking at a dog and then looking back at you in anticipation.

As Monty's threshold improves through counter conditioning, you can begin very gradually reducing the distance between him and other dogs. Move closer only when he is completely relaxed at the current distance — not just tolerating it. If he reacts, you have moved too fast. Step back and work at a greater distance for longer. Progress is not linear and that is completely normal.